Metal siding has moved from barns and industrial parks into the suburban mainstream, and the reasons are practical: it is light, fire-resistant, hail-resistant, and nearly maintenance-free. Installed cost typically lands between $7 and $15 per sq ft — more than vinyl, often less than fiber cement once you account for the simpler labor. Steel and aluminum dominate residential work, with zinc and copper reserved for high-end and historic projects.
But metal is not one product. A 29-gauge snap-lock panel from a home center and a 24-gauge standing seam system share a material family and almost nothing else. Gauge, profile, finish, and fastener strategy decide whether you get 50 years or an oil-canned, chalked, dented wall in ten.
This guide covers the metals, the profiles, how gauge and finish drive durability and price, where metal wins, where it does not belong, and what to ask before you sign.
Steel, Aluminum, Zinc, and Copper: What You Are Actually Buying
Steel is the volume product. It is strong, cheap, and takes paint well, but it rusts wherever the finish is scratched, so cut edges and fastener heads need attention. Aluminum weighs about a third as much, never rusts, and skins over with a protective oxide — but it is softer, dents more easily, and reacts with copper and treated lumber, so it needs stainless or aluminum fasteners and a barrier against ACQ-treated wood. Zinc and copper are architectural metals: quiet, essentially permanent, and priced accordingly. The full material comparison lives in our home siding guide.
| Metal | Thickness | Installed cost / sq ft | Service life | Best used for |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Steel | 24–29 ga | $7–$15 | 40–60 yrs | Hail belt, industrial looks |
| Aluminum | 0.019–0.032 in. | $8–$16 | 30–50 yrs | Coastal and salt air |
| Zinc | 0.8 mm | $25–$45 | 60–100 yrs | High-end work that patinas |
| Copper | 16–20 oz | $35–$60 | 100+ yrs | Landmark and historic |
For most homes the real choice is steel or aluminum. Steel wins on dent resistance and price; aluminum wins on salt air and weight.
Product Forms and Profiles
The profile changes the look, the fastener strategy, and how the wall drains. Standing seam is the premium form: raised seams with concealed clips, no exposed fasteners, and pans 12 to 24 inches wide. It performs best in wind and costs the most to install. Corrugated and ribbed panels fasten through the ribs with exposed screws — cheap, fast, and unmistakably agricultural. Horizontal lap panels mimic clapboard or board-and-batten and hide fasteners behind a nailing hem. Snap-lock vertical panels interlock at the seam and are the most DIY-friendly. Insulated panels bond a foam core between two steel skins, adding R-5 to R-8 and killing most of the drumming noise.
Gauge, Oil-Canning, and Hail
Gauge is thickness, and a lower number means thicker steel. 29 gauge is 0.014 in., 26 gauge is 0.019 in., and 24 gauge is 0.025 in. — nearly double the metal of 29. Aluminum is not sold by gauge at all; it is specified in inches, usually 0.019 to 0.032.
Thin panels oil-can, rippling between fasteners when the sun heats them and the steel expands against a rigid attachment. Thin panels also dent. A 29-gauge wall in the Texas or Oklahoma hail belt looks like a golf ball after one bad season; 24 gauge over solid sheathing is a different product.
Hail ratings come from UL 2218, and Class 3 or Class 4 is what you want. Ask for the tested assembly, not just the panel — substrate, clip spacing, and thickness all matter.
Finishes: SMP vs. PVDF
SMP, or silicone-modified polyester, is the standard coil coating: affordable, available in dozens of colors, and warrantied against fade and chalk for roughly 20 to 40 years depending on coating thickness. PVDF, sold as Kynar 500 or Hylar 5000, is a fluoropolymer with far more resin and better UV stability, usually warranted 30 to 40 years with a stated limit on color change.
PVDF costs more per sq ft, but in Arizona, New Mexico, and coastal Florida it is the difference between a wall that holds its color and one that goes chalky in a decade. Also ask what the steel is coated with underneath: Galvalume and zinc-aluminum substrates resist cut-edge corrosion far better than plain galvanized.
Field note: If a bid says “26 gauge” without naming the steel substrate, the coil coating, or the paint system, assume 26-gauge commercial-quality steel with a thin SMP finish. That is a fine panel for a shed. It is not what you want on a house you plan to keep.
What Metal Siding Costs: Material vs. Installed
Material alone runs roughly $2 to $5 per sq ft for painted steel lap and ribbed panels, $4 to $8 for aluminum, and $8 to $20 or more for zinc and copper. Installed, expect $7 to $15 per sq ft for steel and $8 to $16 for aluminum on a straightforward re-side.
Labor is often lower than fiber cement siding because the panels are light, cut with snips or a shear, and cover a lot of wall in a day. Where metal gets expensive is trim: standing seam corners, rake caps, closures, and custom brake work are fabricated per job, and a complicated roofline can double the trim bill.
Performance in the Field: Fire, Wind, Salt, and Movement
Metal is noncombustible, which is why it is now common in California wildfire zones and why some insurers treat it favorably. Wind uplift depends on the panel, the clip spacing, and the substrate — a tested standing seam assembly with concealed clips can carry very high ratings, while a 29-gauge lap panel nailed every 16 inches is a different animal.
Corrosion is where metal quietly fails. Salt air attacks cut edges and fasteners first, so coastal jobs need aluminum or stainless fasteners. Any place steel touches copper, treated lumber, or a dissimilar metal is a galvanic corrosion site waiting to happen.
Metal also moves. A 10 ft panel can grow and shrink by roughly 1/8 in. across a 100-degree swing, which is why fasteners belong in slotted or oversized holes. Pin a panel tight and it oil-cans, then shears its screws.
Noise, Denting, and Maintenance
Two complaints are legitimate. The first is noise: rain and hail on an uninsulated metal wall is loud, and if that wall backs a bedroom you will notice. Solid sheathing, a drainage mat, and foam-core panels cut it substantially. The second is denting: aluminum dents from a thrown ball, and any metal dents from a ladder or a mower stone — permanently.
Maintenance is nearly nothing: an annual wash with a hose and mild soap, plus a check that fasteners and gasketed washers are still snug. Paint fade and chalk are the long-term issues rather than rust. Touch up scratches on steel within a season so corrosion never starts at the cut edge.
Frequently Asked Questions
How long does metal siding last?
Expect 40 to 60 years for painted steel and 30 to 50 for aluminum, assuming the finish holds. Zinc and copper run far longer. The metal itself usually outlives its paint, which is why the coating system and the substrate matter more than the gauge on a house you plan to keep.
Is metal siding loud in the rain?
On an open stud wall with no sheathing, yes — noticeably. Over solid sheathing with a drainage mat, the difference is modest. Foam-core insulated panels are the quietest option and add R-5 to R-8. If the wall backs a bedroom, insulate it.
Does metal siding dent in hail?
It can. Thin 29-gauge panels dent in ordinary hail; 24-gauge steel over solid sheathing with a UL 2218 Class 3 or Class 4 assembly holds up far better. Ask for the tested assembly, since substrate and clip spacing affect the rating as much as the panel.
Is metal siding only for barns and shops?
No, but it suits some architecture better than others. Standing seam and board-and-batten profiles look right on farmhouse, modern, and industrial homes, and metal is now common in wildfire zones. On a 1920s colonial in a historic district, or under an HOA that specifies vinyl or fiber cement, it is usually the wrong fight.
The Bottom Line
Metal is the right answer more often than it was twenty years ago, but not for every house. In the hail belt, a wildfire zone, or a modern, farmhouse, or industrial design, buy 24-gauge steel with a PVDF finish, concealed clips, and stainless fasteners — and you will likely never think about the wall again. In a historic district, or under an HOA that bans it, do not force it. Get three local bids, compare the trim line, and read the finish warranty before you sign anything.
About the author
Marcus Hale writes about exterior remodeling and building products for SidingHolic. He researches siding, trim, and gutter systems using manufacturer specifications, contractor pricing in US markets, and residential building-code requirements, then translates the trade-offs into plain language for homeowners. Read more about our editorial approach.